Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.